Top 6 Animal Training Techniques | How To Teach Your Dog ANYTHING

Now that we’ve got a grasp on the basics of animal behavior – understanding how behavior works, it’s origins, and, most importantly, how we can change and influence it – let’s dive into the practical side of things. If you need a refresher on the fundamentals, check out The Fundamentals of Animal Behavior and Training first to get caught up. Here, we are delving into specifics on how to use our knowledge of behavior as a powerful tool to teach our pets, well…anything! (Note: while this article mainly focuses on dog training, the concepts do not change for teaching other pets)

A Note On Techniques

When it comes to working with animals, there are as many training techniques as there are trainers. Yet, we’re all playing the same game. Every tactic must operate within the same laws of behavior. Behavior and learning principles aren’t inherently good or bad; they simply exist. It’s our role as trainers to figure out how to best use them, either to achieve our goals or to prevent them from hindering our progress.

Among the myriad of learning forms and behavior modification principles available to us in training, here we’ll highlight the methods generally considered the quickest, easiest, most effective, and most enjoyable for both owners and pets. It is important to remember that animals are living beings. There is no one-size-fits-all approach. That’s why professional trainers and behaviorists frequently experiment with and combine several techniques simultaneously to identify the most effective method for each unique scenario.

There are six key training techniques that can be used to teach your dog just about anything: All or None Reward Training, Shaping, Classical Conditioning, Lure/Reward Training, Autoshaping, and Physical Placement. It does not matter whether you’re teaching something new or resolving an existing behavioral issue, the principles remain the same. What sets these techniques apart as the go-to options are their simplicity, speed, effectiveness, precision, and, of course, their enjoyability. Let’s delve into each technique, exploring how these factors impact your decision on which to use as well as how to execute them.

1. All or None Reward Training

All or None Reward Training is a refreshingly simple concept: patiently wait for your dog to do what you want and then reward them for it. As the name implies, the feedback is binary; wanted behavior equals reward (all), while unwanted behavior equals no response (none).

Ease: All or None Reward Training is the second easiest technique after Autoshaping because it only requires your patience and time.

Speed: All or None Reward Training requires patience initially, as you must wait for the dog to display the desired behavior. This could take hours or never happen at all! Therefore, it’s not ideal for situations where the dog is stressed or unlikely to engage in the desired behavior. However, once the dog grasps the concept through a few repetitions, the time it takes them to repeat the behavior decreases dramatically, speeding up the process. While this technique demands time, its efficiency grows as the dog becomes more familiar with the expected behavior.

Effectiveness: All or None Reward Training proves highly effective in the right situations. For instance, when dealing with energetic or rambunctious dogs, this approach works wonders to calm them down and direct their focus on training. However, once the dog is successfully engaged, it’s advisable to shift to an alternative technique such as Lure/Reward Training or Shaping for continued progress.

All or None Reward Training is particularly effective when teaching a dog to refrain from an undesirable behavior. One method for this is commonly referred to as Differential Reinforcement of Other behaviors (DRO). This technique involves feeding or reinforcing any behavior the dog exhibits that is not the specific undesirable behavior.

All or None Reward Training can even be used to teach your dog seemingly complex tasks, such as how to do math! (learn how here)

Enjoyability: All or None Reward Training brings immense enjoyment by alleviating a lot of the frustration that comes with other training techniques. In All or None Reward Training, the expectation for the dog to perform is virtually eliminated. It is impossible for them to fail a request or ignore a prompt because you are not asking them to do anything. This prevents mistakes, and when the dog cannot make a mistake, owners cannot get frusturated with them.

Precision: While All or None Reward Training is effective for guiding a dog in a general direction, it typically falls short when aiming for precision in behavior. This method excels at broad guidance rather than fine-tuning specific behaviors.

How to: As the name implies, All or None Reward Training is performed by simply waiting for your dog to exhibit the desired behavior, then rewarding it while ignoring any other behaviors. Employing what is known as a Differential Reinforcement Schedule (explained further here) is crucial in All or None Reward Training. This entails not rewarding every repetition, but, instead, raising criteria as the dog’s performance improves by rewarding only the best responses (let’s say the best 1 in every 3).

2. Shaping

Shaping involves rewarding the animal for successive approximations – essentially, acknowledging and rewarding the animal when it performs actions that progressively align with the desired behavior. In other words, Shaping is rewarding the animal when it does something close to what you want.

Simplicity: Shaping is not difficult to perform, though it demands skills and practice to use effectively. Unlike All or None Reward Training, Shaping requires heightened attention to ensure proper timing and consistency.

Speed: In the initial stages, Shaping may progress slowly. Similar to All or None Reward Training, you must await the animal to exhibit the desired behavior, and predicting how long those first few responses will take is almost impossible. For this reason, it is advised to use Shaping in combination with other methods for quicker results. The speed also depends on what behaviors are being taught, with more intricate behaviors requiring more time for mastery.

Effectiveness: Similar to All or None Reward Training, Shaping proves highly effective in the right situation. Shaping excels in instructing complex or highly precise behaviors such as a close and precise heel. However, one drawback, apart from time, is that Shaping often restricts the ability to teach multiple behaviors simultaneously.

Enjoyability: Shaping offers a delightful experience for the same reason as All or None Reward Training. Since it doesn’t involve specific instructions or commands, the dog cannot disobey. The enjoyment is heightened as Shaping organically sets achievable, incremental goals; maintaining high motivation and satisfaction for both trainer and dog. Additionally, shaping is particularly enjoyable as it proves to be an effective method for teaching charming tricks like ‘sit pretty’, ‘shake’, and more!

Precision: As previously mentioned, Shaping excels in teaching advanced, intricate behaviors due to its precision. Through accurate timing and proper communication, trainers can pinpoint and mark the precise moment their dog performs the desired action. This clear communication compounds, enabling us to teach seemingly impossible tasks, such as a handstand (pawstand??) (Learn how here).

How to: In Shaping, trainers reward the dog for incremental progress toward the desired goal. For instance, consider teaching your dog ‘shake’. You start by rewarding your dog for slight weight shifts off the paw. Subsequently, rewards are only given for lifting the paw an inch, then for moving it several inches off the ground, progressing to exclusively rewarding movements toward you. This process continues until your dog achieves the goal of placing their paw directly in your hand.

In shaping, it is important to establish each small step as the new criterion for reinforcement. Avoid regressing to previous steps unless the dog encounters significant difficulty. Expect several repetitions for each approximation before progressing. Furthermore, introduce the verbal cue (e.g. “shake”) or hand signal only after the dog consistently demonstrates the complete desired behavior.

Mastering this technique hinges on precise timing – mark and reward the exact moment your dog advances closer to the desired behavior. Consistency is also crucial; every missed successful approximation sets the animal’s understanding back. Lastly, establish realistic progressive criteria for reinforcement, acknowledging that even tiny steps of progress are still progress. Setting small goals and expectations ensures quicker results.

Given that Shaping can be time-consuming when employed alone, it proves a highly effective technique when combined with other methods. For instance, a trainer might utilize Lure/Reward training to teach a dog to heel initially, then seamlessly transition to Shaping to refine an exact position. Need your dog’s paw slightly to the left and hind end 1 ½ inches closer to you? Shaping is going to be your best friend for the nitty gritty.

3. Classical Conditioning

As we covered in our fundamentals article, Classical Conditioning involves associating a behavioral response with an unrelated stimulus. In simpler terms, it’s linking something pleasant with something unpleasant to alter the animal’s response to the latter. Unlike the other techniques, Classical Conditioning is the only one thats purpose isn’t to train your dog to respond to a cue but rather to condition an internal response.

Simplicity: While Classical Conditioning is conceptually straightforward, using it effectively as a training tool requires practice. Achieving optimal results hinges on mastering proper timing, feedback, and exposure intensity. This can be challenging for new trainers, particularly in the inherently stressful context of working with a potentially dangerous animal in public. Consistent practice is key to mastering this technique!

Speed: Classical Conditioning is very powerful but time consuming. The speed of the process is significantly influenced by the aversion’s intensity (how scary the stimulus is) and its history (how long the stimulus has been scary). Initiating training promptly expedites issue resolution.

Moreover, Classical Conditioning can be time-consuming as addressing aversions effectively requires venturing out into the world to find them. For example, if you are employing Classical Conditioning to address a dog’s aggression towards other dogs, actively seeking out other dogs (and lots of them) becomes essential. This process involves both locating and traveling to suitable locations for training. Ensure you allocate ample time daily to make these interactions routine.

Effectiveness: Classical Conditioning stands as an unbelievably powerful training method, proving valuable not only for addressing severe behavioral issues in very dangerous animals, but also for nurturing positive associations in young animals like puppies. Establishing these associations right from the start ensures a stable, friendly, confident, and enjoyable pet in adulthood. The strength of Classical Conditioning should never be underestimated – it is a remarkable tool capable of delivering highly effective and often shocking results.

Enjoyability: Classical Conditioning not typically known for being enjoyable as, by nature, it requires placing both owner and dog in stressful situations – the dog confronting it’s fears and the owner anticipating the dog’s reaction. However, as training advances, this stress diminishes. After all, this is the whole purpose of this training. Herein lies the most rewarding aspect of Classical Conditioning, it’s capacity to generate life-changing results in both pet and owner for a truly transformative impact.

Precision: Precision does not apply to Classical Conditioning because, remember, the aim is not teach the dog to respond to cue, but to alter an internal response. However! As trainers, precision in providing instructive feedback on the quality of the dog’s performance (not just that the dog is doing well, but HOW WELL the dog is doing) as well as precision in the timing of our feedback remain crucial elements.

How to: Classical Conditioning stands out as the number one method for behavior modification. For effective use, trainers must first identify what triggers the dog’s aversive reactions (barking, biting, growling, and lunging OR running away and hiding) and determine the dog’s most loved motivators (asking the owner is often a good place to start). These motivators are usually a favorite food or toy but can be just about anything. Once identified, trainers then expose the dog to these aversions. For instance, if the aversion is other dogs, consider training outside a dog park; if it’s people, a shopping center may be suitable. If the aversion involves household elements like a blender, doorbell, or guest then you’re in luck! There’s no reason to leave the home.

Once the animal is in the presence of the aversion, initiate training by identifying the threshold for reactivity – the distance the dog can be to the aversion BEFORE reacting. Begin by feeding the animal whenever it looks at or acknowledges the aversion (referred to as pairing). Continue pairing as long as the dog remains focused on the aversion, ceasing when it looks away. Once the dog losses interest or calms down, gradually move a short distance closer (approximately ½ to 2 steps). This distance from the aversion, known as the exposure intensity, requires careful and strategic planning and an adaptive approach.

The name of the game here is statistical analysis. Measure and record the animal’s responses: How long did they stare? How far away from the stimulus? How quickly did they stop reacting? And other relevant factors. This analytical approach will provide valuable insight into the effectiveness of the training and aids in determining when or if any adjustments are necessary. (Explore a comprehensive guide on performing classical conditioning here)

Classical Conditioning, while powerful, poses challenges for novice trainers due to its intricacies, potential pitfalls, and what ifs. Not to mention can be downright dangerous with improper handling! Therefore, it STRONGLY recommended that you seek assistance from a professional animal behavior consultant when faced with severe behavioral problems.

4. Lure-Reward Training

Lure-Reward Training involves using a reinforcer (food, toy, etc.) to guide your dog into a desired position or behavior. This technique is by far the most commonly used training technique and for good reason – it’s quick, easy, enjoyable, and, most importantly, highly effective.

Simplicity: Lure-Reward Training is pretty straightforward. For some, there may be a small learning curve initially due to the dexterity required that does’t come naturally to everyone. Another challenge arises in phasing out the lure. Using a lure can easily become a crutch that some owners rely on because they become accustomed to how easy it works. The lure then inadvertently transforms into a contingency, or bribe, for the dog. This is the culprit behind the “she’ll only do it for a treat” conundrum.

Speed: Lure-Reward Training stands out as the fastest training approach by far. Results within the first 1-5 trials are typical, sometimes even in the very first! This rapid progress is primarily attributed to the trainer’s ability to accurately predict when the dog will offer the desired behavior (hint: it happens immediately after the lure). No waiting involved! Additionally, since the trainer actively solicits each response, they can execute as many repetitions as the animal will permit (which often exceeds the owners’ own endurance!)

Effectiveness: Lure-Reward Training excels in establishing the highest level of reliability in your dog’s responses. This method allows normal pet owners to train their animals to respond to cues reliably in almost any situation. (Just remember to phase out your food lure appropriately!) Renowned for its effectiveness, Lure-Reward Training is the method of choice for almost all service dog training organizations among countless other professionals involved in training and behavior.

Enjoyability: Lure-Reward Training is incredibly enjoyable! Dogs relish the food and play, and both owner and dog delight in the interaction! This training method is particularly encouraging for novice trainers thanks to the high reinforcement and success rates achievable in a single session.

Precision: While Lure-Reward Training can be remarkably precise. Achieving this precision requires experience due to factors such as body awareness, timing, and dexterity. Additionally, just like in All or None Reward Training, utilizing a Differential Reinforcement Schedule of 1:3 is essential for attaining that impressive level of precision.

How to: Lure-Reward Training involves holding food in one hand and letting the dog know you have something enticing (waving it in front of their nose usually works). This will immediately capture their attention, turning your hand into a magnet that the dog follows closely. Capitalizing on this, you can use the lure like magic to guide them into a desired location. Even more exciting, you can manipulate their body into any desired position without laying a finger on them by cleverly shifting their own weight while following the lure. Think of it like water bending but with a dog – dog bending!

Throughout this process, you can seamlessly incorporate hand signals and verbal cues by saying them immediately before you lure, then progressing to using only the signal. Don’t forget, lures are just reinforcers – anything the dog finds appealing – so don’t be afraid to experiment with different items, such as a favorite toy or even a delightful smell. You know your dog’s preferences best.

5. Autoshaping

True to its name, Autoshaping closely resembles Shaping as it involves rewarding successive approximations. The key distinction with Autoshaping is your presence is not required for the training to unfold. The Shaping process occurs automatically – simply set up the situation, and the dog will train itself!

Simplicity: Autoshaping is by far the easiest of these training techniques because, again, all you need to do is create the training scenario. It’s the same as autopilot being easier than flying a plane – you simply set the course, and the process unfolds effortlessly.

Speed: Autoshaping, while not particularly quick in terms of how rapidly the animal learns, does offer an immense amount of time-saving advantage for the owner. The only time investment necessary lies in setting up the scenario. With a strategic and consistent approach, autoshaping results can be achieved within as little as 2 days to as much as a few weeks, depending on the specific issue, its history, and its severity.

Effectiveness: Autoshaping is a technique that seems almost too good to be true! While, it may not be the solution for every training challenge, it is a true marvel for training dogs to behave while they’re home alone.

Enjoyability: While Autoshaping might not offer much amusement for the owner, it brings pure enjoyment to the animal! Besides, even if it’s not inherently fun, the results are still highly gratifying. Especially to a new puppy owner experiencing the joy of their first good sleep in days because their puppy has been crying in the crate every night.

Precision: Autoshaping proves to be a precise training technique as each piece of food the dog gets automatically reinforces him. This eliminates concerns about timing or dexterity for owners seeking precise responses. Additionally, given Autoshaping’s tool-oriented nature (using kongs, chew toys, bones, etc.), its strategies are likely to improve over time with advancements in technology.

How to: As previously mentioned, Autoshaping is a strategy best reserved for training dogs to behave well in solitude. A practical approach involves exclusively feeding through chew toys. While food-filled Kongs and puzzles are popular choices (for good reason), the possibilities are only limited by your own imagination! For a comprehensive guide on using a Kong, check out this article. It’s pretty simple, ditch the food bowl and feed your dog exclusively by stuffing his meals inside an appropriately sized Kong.

Don’t underestimate the value of this technique! Autoshaping holds the power to resolve a myriad of behavior problems, including but not limited to chewing, house soiling, barking, howling, crying, and even separation anxiety with professional assistance and a well-devised strategy. The outcomes can be truly remarkable. Some trainers have reported as much as a 90% reduction in problematic behaviors, like barking when left alone, in just a couple days of training.

6. Physical Placement

Physical Placement is the act of physically maneuvering the animal into a certain position. This is often done using the collar or leash, but can be done using just the body.

Simplicity: Physical Placement is definitely the most difficult of the training techniques, requiring above-average handling skills, because of the dexterity and body awareness required, along with exceptional observational abilities. Due to its inherent invasive nature, it does not take much for an animal to become fearful or stressed with Physical Placement. This carry’s a heavy and very real bite risk for the trainer. Consequently, this technique should only be introduced by animal behavior experts when the situation necessitates.

Speed: When performed correctly, Physical Placement can deliver results as quickly as Lure-Reward Training. However, if your objective is to have your dog obey off-leash or at a distance, the training time will be extended. The challenge with this method is that it introduces an extra step to training, as it requires the trainer to be in close physical proximity to the dog for prompting. These high-level skills are better trained using other methods.

Effectiveness: Physical Placement can prove an effective tool. Although, unlike food and play rewards, Physical Placement is difficult to phase out. Therefore, its most beneficial when employed as a consequence for non-compliance to a command, reducing the need for repetitive requests. So instead of telling your dog to sit 5 times you only need to ask once. However, be cautious, because Physical Placement can quickly move into pushing, pulling, and yanking on the dog. This thigmotaxis (tactile pressure) can easily induce an oppositional reflex, leading the dog to instinctually move against this pressure, inadvertently training the exact opposite of the intended behavior.

Enjoyability: Physical Placement ranks low on the enjoyability scale. When not properly introduced, it can readily induce stress for both the owner and the animal.

Precision: Physical Placement is effective for teaching precision in your pet’s behaviors by allowing the trainer the ability to maneuver the animal into the exact position or orientation desired. However, for enduring results, it is recommended to combine Physical Placement with other techniques, such as shaping, if precision is a priority.

How to: As previously mentioned, Physical Placement can easily escalate into superfluous pressure, triggering a fear and stress response in the animal. To mitigate this, it’s crucial to introduce Physical Placement carefully, using pairing (Classical Conditioning) with food. This not only increases compliance but also minimizes the effort and fear experienced by the dog. Always remember, it is a PRIVILEGE to touch an animal. Not a right.

Achieving this is optimal through a blend of Lure-Reward Training combined with Physical Placement. Initiate with gentle pressure on the collar or leash in the desired direction while simultaneously luring with food. After multiple repetitions (ensuring no signs of stress), gradually intensify the pressure while continuing to pair with food. Although this approach can be difficult because you are using 3 methods simultaneously (Physical Placement, Lure-Reward Training, and Classical Conditioning), it also minimizes aversion to Physical Placement and enhances the overall effectiveness of the training.

To Summarize

A frequent question in training is, “How do you determine when to use each method?” While real-world application involves trial and error to identify the most effective approach for the given situation, there is a general pattern to follow.

When addressing puppy issues and household manners like chewing or crate training, always start with Autoshaping. For teaching specific cued behaviors such as ‘sit’ or ‘down’, opt for Lure-Reward Training. In behavior modification always, always, ALWAYS prioritize classical conditioning before transitioning to Lure-Reward Training or other methods. If the dog struggles to focus, begin with All or None Reward Training before quickly moving to Lure-Reward Training. For precision-oriented behaviors, like a competition-level heel, employ Shaping. Shaping is also effective during frustrating sessions when you are getting little to no success. Reserve Physical Placement for correcting non-compliance or in emergency situations, such as grabbing the collar. MAKE SURE you use Classical Conditioning in tandem to Physical Placement to avoid causing even more issues.

These represent the most effective and commonly used training techniques and methods in the vast, wondrous world of animal behavior and training. While this is not an exhaustive list and barely scratches the surface in behavior, these strategies serve as a robust foundation, enabling you to teach your dog ANYTHING you can think of – even if you never delve further into the intricacies of animal behavior.